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Mournes Guidebook


The New Mournes guide has been completed and is now for sale in the usual outdoor retailers or direct from Mountaineering Ireland. (www.mountaineering.ie)

 

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  PIGEON ROCK
Updated 29/08/13



New additions since the 2010 guide in red


Right Hand Buttress

Citroen Wall

1 Unsuspended Animation E4 6a/b
2 Castrol R E1 5a
3 GTX HVS 5b
4 Diesel E2 5c

Unsuspended Animation E4 6a/b
John Herron & Tim Wilson, 28-8-1999.
Start 2M left of the line of Phantoms. Climb the knobbly crack to a short open book corner and continue up to the first ledge. On the ledge move left for 2M to a line of irregularities. Arrange 2 micro wires in the very small crack, (T2), this is the last positive protection until after the crux is passed at the top of the wall. Climb the irregularities until it is possible to move right to a horizontal break, (crux, potential ground-fall at this point.), good no. 1/2 friend in break. Pull up onto the next ledge and move left 3M to the base of a rightward trending Deirdre. Climb this, (good gear), passing over the bulge at the top to belay points a little further back. TWIN ROPES RECOMMENDED! It may be possible to arrange gear in Phantoms prior to attacking the crux wall if the micro wires don't inspire enough confidence.

Diesel E2 5c
K Willett 11/6/04 (Top roped once prior to ascent)
Start 2m right of Castrol R. Climb wall to right hand side of buldge. Surmount this placing good small cams in horizontal break. Continue up slightly right to very shallow groove on tiny side pulls (crux) to next break just below half height, place two good small cams and follow the thin vertical seem to a sloping mantel. Finish up Castrol R.

Gully Wall

Rosa Parks 30m E1 5b
Ian Rea & K O'Hara 17/4/03
Start as for Class Distinction. Climb Class Distinction for 4/5m's just below the first little bulge. Step left and climb flakes on the wall to a left angled crack below bulge. Step right and go directly up wall on edges and flutes.

Lefthand Buttress

1. Virgo VS, 4c, 4b, 4c.

2. B Special E2, 5c, 4c, 4b.
Hard for the grade??

3. Untitled 50m's E1 5b
K O'Hara & I Rea 8/10/09
(1) As for the first two pitches of Virgo. (2) Go back along the ledge and climb directly up between Virgo and Playtex crossing the into a short steep corner. Up this,difficult, to gain flakes on the 4th pitch of Playtex.Step immediately leftand follow ledges and flakes up left to gain short steep corner below the top of the crag Up this and left, difficult and strenuous.

4. If You Clean It, Will they Come? 30m's HVS 5b
I.Rea & K. O'Hara, 8/10/09
Start on the Virgo ledge at the top of the 3rd pitch of Playtex. Go up the first few moves of Playtex but where it goes left go directly up a thin crack then step right into corner. Up this and out right onto ledges.Finish directly up a series of steep short walls and awkward mantels.

5. Strange Fire 30m's E2 5b
I.Rea & K. O'Hara, 8/10/09
Takes the bulging wall right of the previous route.Start from a ledge on the right, past a peg (which is probably not necessary) and climb steeply up and left past another peg (good) to make a precarious mantle onto breathable territory. Finish as for the previous route.

6. Playtex E1
5b,4c, 4c, 5a.

The Mexican Frog * 22m E1 5b
Carson Carnduff, Saul Calvert & Paul Swail, 01/07/13
Some new climbing (very well protected) in a fine position, but escapable at times. Approach is either by abseil from the top of the cliff or by climbing an existing route onto the Virgo ledge. Start 2m right of Virgo's last pitch under a green groove. Climb directly up the groove via some tricky moves (crux and gear pre-placed during first ascent) to the left side of the nose/ overhang. Resist the temptation to step left into Virgo, move up traverse to the arete of Penny Black.

Summer Solstice * 38m VS 4b
P Swail, C Hiller Alt Leads 20/6/12
This line follows the right side of the newly cleaned broken buttress left of Taurus. The FA was climbed in two pitches avoiding rope drag and giving that old school feel of Mournes multi-pitch climbing. A great intro for multi-pitch skills with many good belay stances and a solid thread abseil point.
Start on the right side of the buttress up and round the corner at a huge crevice that can be peered right through to the other side. Climb the cracks and holds above to gain a good stance at the large spike on the stepped spur (belay taken).
Move above the spike and make a delicate (bold) move onto the clean slab. Continue directly up the cleaned granite using cracks and classic Mourne flutings to the top. On up heathery slope to block belay, abseil point (Always Check).

Supermoon HVS 5a
Simon Fell, Martin Ferris & Kieran O'Hara 20/6/13
Starts to the right of the see through crack at the base of Summer Solstice. Climb the face moving right onto a large ledge then directly into the off width crack and onto the rib of Summer Solstice which is followed to the top.









Published on: 2004-09-21 (7812 reads)

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