Buckeye Jim (Winter Route) 120 m, 111
I.Rea and K.O'Hara, 1/1/10
Starts just below and left of Corpse Alley and climbs the vegetated mixed ground left of Musical Cracks. Climb a steep leftward rising ramp into a vague gully which leads up to a rocky alcove. Go up and make a long horizontal traverse beneath a steep wall to gain easier ground. Finish up and left.

Cold Harbour (Winter Route) 55 m, V,(4,6)
I.Rea and K. O'Hara, 8/1/10
Above the difficult step in Great Gully is a turfy buttress, bounded on the right by the gully and on the left by a dark right facing corner.
(1) 30m. Climb the difficult step in Great Gully, step left and climb up the middle of the turfy buttress to belay at a huge thread below a small overhang.
(2) 25m. Go round overhang on the right and up obvious left slanting line. Steep and strenuous but very well protected and with good turf where it matters.
(3) 100m. Finish up easier ground left of Great Gully.

With thanks to Craig Hiller @ http://www.hillerscapes.co.uk/

Andy Marshall on the first ascent of Easy Lover E7/8 6c

Easy Lover E7/8 6c. 25m.
A.Marshall, D.O'Neill. 19/10/08. (headpoint)
Starts at the bottom of a flake line approx 5m right of Infidels. Climb the series of flakes trending rightwards until a small overlap. A long step up leads to a series of flakes were an assortment of gear can be arranged. From this point a long reach leads to the next break were a hard and technical traverse rightwards leaves you at a pocket and undercut. A hard move up and right (crux) leads to a wee bit more exposure until the bottom of another flake system is reached. A short rest bite and continue to the top with relative ease.

The 5th Ape E5 6a. ***
Dan O’Neill 12th October 2008.
Steep, positive climbing with good gear. Start under a ledge and plinth to the right of Infidels. Gain the plinth with care and backhand into the thin, right-facing layback flake on the left. Climb this to a good rest, gear. A tricky move gains the huge ‘bird’s beak’ flake up and right. Make a crux mantel onto the jug above using flat undercuts. Stretch up to the break and trend leftwards into the hanging groove.

2. Born Again. Severe 4b. (~22metres) Danny Carden, Andy Carden 26/09/08
Start just left of the toe of the buttress. Follow twin cracks to an awkward wide crack. Squirm up this with help of a flake and one good handhold to the ledge. Finish up the wide chimney, passing large jammed blocks with care.

3. Bare-knuckle Boxer.* Hard Very Severe 5a. (~23metres) Danny Carden, Andy Carden 26/09/08
Layback the slanting flake then make a tricky high step to reach the base of the bulging crack. Launch up the steep crack to a strenuous elephant’s arse finish. Move left to finish up the chimney on Born Again.

The next three routes are easiest to approach by walking a further 150 yards west along the Brandy Pad, before walking up the steep heathery slope on the right. They are best found by spotting the prominent diedre and overhanging crack-line of Feeling the Crunch, on a buttress facing straight down the Annalong Valley. This buttress is in the middle of the Castles crags, on the right (looking up) of a large steep gully. All three start from a picturesque grassy ledge, invisible from below. Scramble up to this ledge from the base of the gully on the left (looking up). .

4. Jobseekers’ Flake* Severe 4a. (~18metres) Danny Carden, Chris Keag, Eamon Quinn 27/09/08
From the base of the next route, move diagonally up left to a prominent sling-able jug at 4metres and go straight up from here to a ledge. Step right to climb the steep positive flake-line just left of the arête.

5. Feeling the Crunch.* Very Severe 4c. (~18metres) Danny Carden 27/09/08
Climb the cracked diedre to a niche beneath the intimidating overhanging crack at 6metres. Pull through the bulge on perfect jams and follow the crack to the top in a fine position.

6. Spongers’ Corner. Severe 4b. (~18metres) Danny Carden, Eamon Quinn, Chris Keag 27/09/08
Layback the single steep crack two metres right of Feeling the Crunch to a sloping ledge beneath the twin-cracked corner. Climb straight up this on large holds, to a protruding square block. Use rounded holds to move past this on its left and reach the top.